operate it from your computer or your cell phone. A GREAT PRINTER

In my 8 years of printing models to fishing lures the m5c is an awesome printer out of the box.
I print alot with PETG, I was highly impressed with the speed, minimal stringing and detail on .04 nozzle.
Direct drive and auto bed level a huge thumbs up. Buying a few more.
I have had several E3 series that are good for the person that likes to tweet prints or printers.

The Ankermake M5c is by far out of the box just need to get some prints done easiest printer I have ever used. plan on replacing my other printers with the M5c's maybe an M5 (for those new product in the works videos).
Also love the wireless control from phone & computer.

I have had two of these ankermake M5C printers fail and become unusable, not worth the hassle just for failed prints and faulty equipment

I love this printer, slightly smaller build volume than my AnkerMake M5, but the perfect companion to the M5.

This printer is easy to use and takes 15 minutes to setup plus some time for auto level (about 10 min). It’s still a 3D printer pulling plastic polymers off a spool and melting it to 200-300C and will need the usual attention and upkeep to keep it going. For the first 5 prints make sure you are in the same room as the printer and can stop it if something goes wrong. It has been my experience that while the printer could be doing something wrong usually the problem is in the slicer settings. Ask around on forums which settings have worked for others and you’ll usually get the model to print just fine. The printer uses standard gcode as its input and you can input gcode directly (say from the actual Prusa Slicer) or directly from AnkerMake Studio. You can rule out an issue with the AnkerMake Studio slicer (although it is based on Prusa) by using the actual Prusa slicer and uploading the gcode. Watch the slicer settings. Lots of folks will upload the settings that worked with their models - at least that is a starting point.

Make sure to use the Anker app every time you retract filament. The nozzle must be heated to the temperature for that polymer and the printer needs to engage the retraction wheels. If you yank on filament without heating the nozzle you’ll break it off in the hot end. Make sure to use the “retract” setting in the app and wait for the nozzle to heat.